Thank you so much for the response to the first post on making the 50s dress! Y’all are so kind—I’m blushing!
One thing I did want to jump in and say is that I’ve noticed many are intimidated by the idea of drafting your own patterns or altering existing ones. Which I can completely understand—it seems like another language sometimes compared to the standard sewing jargon! So I’d love to have your input: do you have any specific questions about pattern alteration/drafting? Wondering what supplies are necessary? How to avoid “mistakes”?
I’d also like to open up this post to questions about sewing in general. I get a lot of emails about basic equipment and book recommendations. I started a series a couple years ago on sewing basics, but it’s in need of an update. So please ask away and hopefully I’ll be able to answer some questions both here and in a larger post (or two!).
I love and am passionate about teaching sewing. But sometimes I think I get ahead of myself and take for granted that everyone is as gung-ho about these things as I am. It’s my Achilles heel in life: I get caught up in the excitement of “oooh! isn’t this neat?! let me show you how!” that I don’t always thoroughly explain how to take the baby steps to start. Which I’d love to remedy. Because this blog is largely about spreading my love of creativity (and vintage fashion) and showing others how to do it. Like a virtual classroom of sorts. (Though one day I’d love to teach in-person too!) The last thing I want to do is make it seem harder than it is (because sewing really isn’t!) and put anyone off from trying something.
So thank you in advance for taking a moment to leave your thoughts and questions—I appreciate it!
Hi Casey, it’s wonderful idea you have… to teach in-person… I think you’ll be great teacher as youare really nice person and you look really patient…
I am about to start my first sewing project… I have one original 1930s summer dress pattern. I have a few complications with making the pattern because it’s a small picture which should be made bigger through the help of special “ruler” (which is different for each bust size)
it sounds probably weird a bit… well, I hope I manage this…
Do you think that the dress could be sewn in hand?:) Well, I haven’t a sewing machine. One my friend does but I don’t want to bother her everytime I want to sew womething. Do you think that it’s possible?
If I have any other question, I’ll write you:) if it’s ok, of course…
I hope you spend nice summertime… Have a nice day…
Blanka
about altering: if a dress gapes at the neck but fits everywhere else, how do you take in the extra? i’ve read that you take in at the shoulder seams, but i’m not sure i totally understand it…
The book Fit for Real People addresses this issue. I found it interesting that they suggested you use a “high bust” measurement to determine the size pattern you use so that the sleeve and shoulder area fits best. It is easier to adjust for a full bust, etc… than to adjust for the sleeve/shoulder.
Hello, I’m specifically looking for a good sewing book to use as a reference when I work on a sewing project. There are some websites I look at for examples and tips (yours, Colette Patterns, Sew Weekly, to name a few), but it would be nice to have something on hand. Something easy to read and understand would be great.
Thanks in advance!
I really like the Reader’s Digest Sewing Book, I have a 70s edition. The Vogue Sewing Book is good, too. The older editions of both have great general sewing instruction, and can be found inexpensively.
I just graded my first pattern (a vintage dress from the 50′s). It went pretty well, but I did it all by hand and kept thinking there must be an easier way on the computer. I have InDesign (although don’t know how to use it!). I’d love more info on how to draft and grade on the computer.
Generally, I think info on altering patterns would be great. I have some old Singer books that go over this, but I’d love to see more.
I’ve also been struggling lately with zippers. Ugh. I would love a master class in putting in zippers…invisible, lapped, etc.
Thanks!
Casey has posted a super tutorial for sewing a lapped zipper (I refer to it every time I have to sew a zip!). You can find it filed under tutorials, or in the swing dress sewalong.
xx Charlotte
Tuppence Ha’penny Vintage
Casey, thanks for offering your teaching help. I get a lot of inspiration and tips from blogs like yours and other internet resources. Right now I’m interested in learning a bit about pattern drafting and have looked at courses in my city but have had no luck. I think a book may help me take the first steps and would love it if you could recommend a book that may help me get started. Thanks!
Casey, You would be a natural at teaching! And not just sewing. Your attention to detail and the thorough way in which you scribe and document the step by step process in all your tutorials is perfect. I had a thought and not sure it would be feasible in your area but wanted to throw it out. We have a Virginia Center of Arts here in Richmond that teaches all types of art classes geared to adults (they have after school programs for kiddies too). A few years ago they added Beginning and Intermediate sewing to their class list and it has taken off! The classes are booked solid (8 to 10 students) each time a new offering is open within a couple days of posting the opening.
Our instructors are not always professionally trained nor do they hold degree’s in their area but rather are self taught and live the life of their craft. You would be a perfect fit for it! Does your area offer any type of adult art lessons? Perhaps you could approach them about teaching a small class? We bring our own sewing machines or use the donated machines and are responsible for purchasing the majority of the supplies. Just a thought
Hi Casey, Thank you so much for this post. I think it’s a great idea to go back to the basics. You will be / already are a great teacher. I’ve actually been wondering how to draft patterns specifically from body measurements. I have just a little drafting experience, but my patterns all seem a little bit off. I’m thinking it’s because I always try to change an already existing pattern instead of just starting from scratch. Any help you could provide would be wonderful!
It would be so wonderful if you ever tought an in-person class. That would be so cool!
I’d love to know what your basic drafting tool kit is!
For following along my kit currently consists of:
Tape measure
Ruler
Yard stick
Compass
French Curve
Tracing Paper
Calculator (for doing the maths required when grading a pattern)
Anything else that would be helpful? I keep wondering about one of the grided cardboard cutting mats. I can see their use in squaring things up but always wonder how durable they are! A reference recommendation would also be interesting!
I’d love to take a class by you, but I’m a Brit so it’s unlikely. Your vlogs on you tube are great though so maybe that could be an avenue to explore?
Teaching is fun, very rewarding and exhausting. You’re “on” for the entire class. It’s like you have to be a performer and a Master Magician too. But the key to good learning is to really to be open to mistakes, cuz you’re going to make them. Even after years of sewing, you still make mistakes., but that’s life. A journey!
Casey, I really enjoy your insight and you have inspired me to do some pattern changes. I have been sewing for many years (before you were born, I’m afraid) but have been minimally engaged in it until recently. My issue is that I can’t tell if something fits or not. I look at it in the mirror and I can’t seem to see all the details of fit. I don’t have a dress form or a buddy to help me. Any suggestions on how to look in the mirror and find the little areas that need fixing before it is too late?
Victoria, I have the answer for you. Check out YouTube for video’s on “Duct Tape Body Form”. It sounds crazy but it truly works. Using duct tape, an old t-shirt, stuffing supplies and a hanger or pole, you get a perfect body double. Its quite a bit cheaper than purchasing one and its you… Its also “pinnable” for trying on your designs and making changes.
Enjoy!
This video is pretty good:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jT-7D6oK9XM
A tip for the duct tape dress form: a t shirt adds a lot of bulk. I made mine with plastic wrap instead, because that clings nice and tight to you without adding bulk or distorting your shape (if you’re careful). You just need to find someone with a lot of patience who you’re okay being in your underwear in front of, because it’s one of those things that’s absolutely impossible to do by yourself.
Hi Victoria, if you have a camera and tripod, or someone to take photos, they’re great for capturing fit. You can even post pictures online to ask for help
Having a dress form is great, too!
Oh Casey, more tips and techniques from you would be just lovely! I have the worst time finding patterns for tops in my size (I’m sort of small). When I asked for help at my local fabric/craft store I was told they don;t make patterns in my size because there are plenty of clothes at stores for people like me! Apparently “people like me” aren’t supposed to like sewing for themselves? I don’t know. I do know there are a ton of cute blouses out there that I want to make, though. I am not sure how to scale them down. If I cut from the sides the armholes are too small, if I take bulk out of the middle the shoulders are too close. I’m not sure what to do short of making the top and then altering it. What if the only solution is to put a seam down the middle front!? Ewwww.
Okay, so that was a long request. I know you are up for it, though. Also, I’m doing a “sewing basics” series for my blog as well. Feel free to share it and to comment! Here’s the first post:
http://neveraplainjane.blogspot.com/2011/06/identifying-techniques-dont-be-frayed.html
Also, I love you.
Janice, Fit for Real People would be an Excellent book for you! It shows you how to “tuck” a pattern to make it smaller so that you don’t change the size/shape of the neck/shoulders/armholes. It’s a real lifesaver!
Ohmigosh! Thank you. I actually just had a sewing lesson today and we covered a few fit issues. I’m adding the book to my wish list! Wee!
When it comes to sewing, there is always much to learn. Your niche is vintage and you do it so well. However, basic techniques are universal. No matter what direction you decide to pursue, I am sure you will do it well. Personally, I like the vintage features you add to modern patterns. I like to see your interpretation of vintage styles and how you style them not to look costume-ish. Since you have such a lovely collection of vintage/antique books and magazines I would love to see how you would dissect certain elements and translate them to a modern pattern. Just my two cents. In addition, if I might add, I have learned just as much from self-taught, non-professional sewing teachers as I have in formal education settings. Being able to translate and interpret what you know and what you want to share is the key to teaching success. An organized teacher is the one who will impress, the one whose insights will remain long after the class. If your prior tutorials are any indication, you will do very well.
Hi Casey! I recently purchased a french ruler for alterations, but when I went to shorten a dress I was working on, was stumped as to how to adjust it? If it has not already been done, I would love to see how to master those rulers for alteration purposes.
Sewing is interesting to try. I haven’t tried focusing on sewing except if it is about the project in school or I just want to do some cross-stitching. I think sewing is important not only to make dresses but to repair some clothes, which required stitching. Maybe I will try to read some sewing books to learn more.
Thank you for offering your experience to all of us like this! I bought a gorgeous 50s dress pattern and a pretty white cotton for it, but white cotton is a little see-through, so it needs to be fully lined. How do you replace facings with a full lining, or how do you create and insert a full lining in a dress that doesn’t have one? What do you usually use for lining (rayon, polyester, self-lining)? I also have to do full-bust alterations on every pattern I sew for myself, but I’m not really sure how to do them when the bodice is gathered instead of darted, and that’s not covered in the fit book I own. Have you ever seen anything about this?
Hi Abby! For a gathered bodice I apply the same technique (the slash-and-spread method) but instead of sewing a vertical dart you just gather the extra material to the same points (you just get more ‘gather’). It’s worked for me!
xx Charlotte
Tuppence Ha’penny Vintage
I’m a true beginner, and I really wish I could have someone show me how to do everything! Things I have questions about lately:
• I wish I could see how to do buttonholes. Not really sure how that all works, but it’s keeping me from trying a lot of patterns.
• How do you insert sleeves into a sleeveless garment? How do you switch around sleeves and how do you know if they’ll fit?
• How do you get a pattern you’re altering onto different paper? What sort of paper do you use for that?
• How do you add lining to a garment?
Thank you for showing us your process—that and the inspirational value make me love reading your blog.
I’m with Joan on the French curve. How do you know which part of the curve to use?
Hi Casey — I’m one of your readers who stops by often but rarely comments, but wanted to tell you how much I appreciate your pattern alteration posts. The more I sew, the more I feel this is a necessary (and attainable!!) skill to add to my arsenal — what better way to match our vision to what we’re working so hard to create? The pockets alteration on the Ginger, the Bodice alteration on the 50s dress — so easy, but these are major game-changers! So thank you.
I will say I’m personally interested in how we can turn basic shapes into multiple patterns. Here’s a question: Is there a basic pattern you’d recommend all novice pattern-alterers (I know, it’s not a word!) to have? I.e. a dress pattern with a separate bodice and skirt and sleeves? Fitted skirt, slim skirt? What would be most versatile, in your opinion?
Your clothes always look so sturdy once completed, my clothes that I made seem so fragile and almost everything I’ve made rips after one wear. What do you do to make them not so fragile? Is it just me not sewing right?
Hi Casey! I appreciate ALL of your tutorials. They are always very clear, and the pictures are great for someone who thinks visually, like I do. I learned to draft from a site I found online, called Vintage Sewing Info. It was an amazing early 40′s online ‘book’ with step by step instructions on how to do everything from create a basic sloper, to changing your sloper into hundreds of different styles of blouses. It was totally free. Unfortunately, I just looked for it, and it seems that the site is no longer up. :0( But I did find this: http://www.fashionstudentsonline.com/patternmaking-tutorial/pattern-drafting-links
It might be helpful to some.
Casey, I printed out your instructions about the scalloped collar and I kept putting it off because I thought I could not “get it”. However I was determined to accomplish this and so I studied until I was ready and lo and behold I found that following your very compleat instructions it turned out just perfect. You definetlly explained every step clearlly and now I feel really proud that I didn’t give up. You are already an accomplished teacher. Thankyou so much.
Hi Casey! I’ve been an admirer of your sew for a few months now, but this is the first time I’ve ever commented – thank you for your willingness to help new sewers like me!
Like others, I have questions on using a french curve and sewing sleeves; any tips or advice or basic instructions would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Casey! First off I love your blog! I just started sewing and am working from mostly vintage patterns. Being a beginner I’m not sure at all where to start when altering patterns to fit me. Your pattern changes are so inspiring and I’d love to be able to eventually do those but first I need to figure out where to even begin to fit a pattern to me. I hope that makes sense. Any advice you have would be so fantastic!! Thanks!
I read your blog, I just don’t comment very often at all! But I wanted to leave a comment and tell you how much I appreciate your sewing skills, and how you do tutorials to share your talent with others. No sloppy sewing on this blog!
yeah I had a question: how do you resize a pattern? it might be a stupid question but I’m sort of new to sewing. Like if I want to go from a 14 to a size 16 or 18 but the pattern pieces are already cut to a 14.
By the way I love your outifts you create. You’re such a huge inspiration!! If you were a fashion designer and marketted your clothes I would definately buy them
Casey, let me begin by saying I absolutely adore your website! I have recently purchased the book Fit for Real People and it is a lifesaver for altering patterns to fit various body shapes and sizes. I would like information on changing a pattern if I want a different waist, neckline, hemline or sleeve than my pattern offers. What about grading for various sizes?
I am getting ready to make a “Cinderella” dress where the top needs boning in it similar to a corset, but it will have a modest neckline and lace up the back (with a modesty panel behind the lacing). I am not sure how to go about this (I’ve never inserted boning, made a bra or corset, never used grommets, etc…and any input would be helpful. Thank you for allowing me the chance to submit my request via your blog! I can’t wait to see what you do next!
Hi Casey,
Thank you SO much for being an inspiration as well as a guide in the wonderful land of sewing. I am just beginning to hone my basic skills so it’s fun and informative to come and read your blog.
My question is about drafting/altering. I have a large bust and average waist/hips and I was wondering how simple is it to say, size up a pattern from a 36″ bust (for example) to a 40/42″? I’m very happy you posted this because I was going to email you anyhow.
Thanks again! <3
Anna
Hello Anna, I have the same exact problem… bust size is 3 to 4 times bigger than the standard pattern fit. The book mentioned by Stephanie Barrick discusses the FBA (Full Bust Alteration) but there is also an awesome tutorial by SewMamaSew with step by step pictures. I used this, first on a muslin and then carried it over to a dress. It worked perfectly!!
http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/2008/05/full-bust-alterations-or-adjustments-fba/
Hi Casey,
I would love to see how you altered the Sorbetto top. It would be great to see this very basic (I am assuming, here) pattern adjustment/alteration.
Thanks and I just love everything about your blog:)
I’m kind of the same as you in that I’m quite happy to tackle design alterations (for my second sewing project I drafted a new neckline, and obviously the facing to match – a super easy alteration, but nonetheless one I was proud of). Though I do have to confess that the more intermediate-to-advanced techniques that I saw here and on Gertie’s blog did kind of intimidate me when I was first thinking of taking up sewing. So perhaps you could do a couple of baby-step tutorials like altering a neckline, or converting set-in sleeves to cap sleeves (something else I taught myself to do recently) to show how very easy it can be.
What I personally would love to see is more hints on tailoring. I’ve got the FBA down ok (at least in principle!), but something else I’ve had trouble with is my waist/hip ratio, specifically in a slim skirt design. I have a slight pot belly below the waist, which adds to the problem and means that just taking it in at the sides isn’t necessarily enough – I need some pointers on darts (it really should be straightforward, but I can’t seem to get my head round it). And a suggestion of how to do that – take in the waist – on a RTW skirt would be great too (and again perhaps helpful to a beginner?).
Something else I loved which you’ve done before, is to show simple ways of customising a particular pattern, like you did for the ginger skirt sewalong (that was you wasn’t it, I’m not getting you mixed up?).
Lastly, fabrics – I for one would really really like to know some resources for buying rayon crepe from – it’s impossible to find here in the UK!
I have so many other questions that I can’t think of right now, but they can wait for another time.
xx Charlotte
Tuppence Ha’penny Vintage
always soaking up any and all tips you have to share!
Thanks for the offer! I often see vintage patterns that I love buth they are never in the right size!
I know there are ways to tweak the pattern to make it bigger or smaller, but I am sooo intimidated at the thought of attempting this. I would love advice and resources on how to re-size a pattern correctly.
I absolutely love your blog and constantly come away inspired!!!
Hi Casey!
I found your blog about a month ago and have absolutely loved reading it ever sice and i’ve been devouring all your tutorials as I find you explain things very clearly and precisely which makes it easy to follow along.
I’m a sewer of middlish experience (mainly quilting and medieval stuff which has been patterned on the body) so i don’t know much about making paper patterns or altering them, I love vintage patterns but can never find them in my size
So any recomendations for pattern drafting basics would be appreciated.
Your blog is so inspiring with your finished items and tutorials. Glad you are there to help people who are experienced and not so experienced.
I don’t have any questions at the moment, but I can share some book recommendations.
My text books that I kept from college when I studied fashion design are: Draping for Apparel Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong, PatternMaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong, Grading Techniques for Fashion Design by Jeanne Price and Bernard Zamkoff. I also bought a 2nd text book on grading from the FIT bookstore called Professional Pattern Grading by Jack Hanford. The book I refer to the most is the PatternMaking book.
So nice of you to open it up for questions! I’ve been thinking since yesterday what I could include for my question. This is something that I have had a difficult time really finding much info on, though it seems pretty basic. Not seam finishing per se, but when you do them. Do you finish the edge of your side seams before setting in the sleeve? Before the hem? Things like that. I know it depends on if you have a serger or not, too, and depends on the type of finish, but it’s still those crossing points that always puzzle me.
A different Renee here!
I am just learning to sew, and your blog is so lovely and such an inspiration. Thank you!
I was wondering if it is possible to alter a circle skirt. I saw one in a store that was absolutely gorgeous, and ridiculously discounted, but it was (alas) too small for me. I bought it anyway, thinking that it must be possible to simply move the waist down an inch to where the circumference is bigger. But I had a recent conversation with a colleague who sews, and she says it would change the line of the skirt and it would be bad. Is that true? Is there something else I can do to make the waist bigger?
Casey, I have a question I finally thought of…When you’re sewing from a pattern with no fabric recommendations on it, how do you choose? Obviously with some items it’s fairly easy to figure it out, but I’ve just completed a skirt from a 1940s Advance pattern where I really wasn’t sure (and still am not sure!) if my fabric had the right hand or not. The skirt isn’t a disaster, thankfully, but I’ll always wonder…
What a great idea to open the platform to ask question and answer session for sewing related questions. I am glad I stumbled upon here, since I had a few questions which already have been answered. Thanks for this beautiful and informative blog.
Could you do a post on how to grade a pattern? I’ll be getting a vintage blouse pattern that is just a little bit too small and would love to learn how to make it my size.
Love your posts!