casey's musings

love letters blouse

February 8th, 2010

02.08.10 {love letters blouse}

[ click for a larger view. ]

Perhaps I’m in a sappy mood, but when I pulled this fabric out of my stash, the motif reminded me of love letters! I made this over the weekend (along with half-finishing another project, and fitting some 30s slacks), using the Sencha blouse from Colette Patterns that Sarai sent me (thank you, Sarai!). Not to sound like a broken record, but have I ever mentioned how much I love the pattern line? lol.

02.08.10 {love letters blouse}

[ click for a larger view. ]

The fabric has a bit of a fun back story… It originally began life as a rather shapeless early 1990s dress I spotted at a rummage sale on the $0.25 table. It was big, boxy and generally too 90s “romantic grunge” for my taste. But the fabric was pretty fantastic–it reminded me of those lovely novelty prints from the 40s! I figured there was enough in the skirt to make a blouse, so for a quarter, it came home with me. Fast forward about two years, and I “rediscovered” it in the back of my closet. (Goes to show you just how organized I am… lol!) Blouses were on my list of things to make for spring, so the fabric plus the super-simple style of the Sencha pattern seemed like a good fit.

02.08.10 {love letters blouse}

[ click for a larger view. ]

I love the buttons down the back–don’t you?! I decided to be crazy again and do bound buttonholes. I am seriously the world’s slowest seamstress when it comes to making them, but I love the end result. One thing I wanted to point out about this blouse (more of a technical ramble here…) is the interfacing I used along the neckline. Interfacing, I have noticed, seems to strike fear into many home sewist’s hearts; I think because it hasn’t been until recently that books and magazines (like Threads) have started to demystify it a bit. I think a lot of times too it’s just easier to use the stuff you can find at your local sewing chain and just “make do”. The trick with interfacing is that it shouldn’t change the drape or grossly effect the weight of the material it’s supporting. Besides the woven and non-woven iron-on interfacing found at most stores, you can use a variety of “garment” fabrics like voile, organdy, muslin, flannel, etc. For this particular project, I interfaced everything with a bit of lightweight cotton. It took a bit more time to prepare (basting the cotton to the blouse fabric, finishing the edges, etc.), but was worth it because the end result is a layer that supports the blouse neckline (and buttonholes) without being detectable.

02.08.10 {love letters blouse}

[ click for a larger view. ]

Anyway, enough sewing rambling! I’m off to make myself another cup of morning tea–it’s downright cold here this morning! hehe!


inspiration {week #105}

February 5th, 2010

02.05.10 {weekly inspiration!}

[ breathtaking images to brighten up the dull, early February weather! ]

Hello my darling friends! Is it just me, or does it seem unbelievable that we’re already through the first week of February? Yikes! My week has been crazy, and included things like starting a few new sewing projects (I need to get back to two that are at about halfway–such a neglectful seamstress!) that I’m excited about. One has put me on the hunt for some snappy vintage buttons; it seems my stash of white buttons seems to have everything but the size I need (a whopping 3/4″). lol. Thankfully, Etsy came to the rescue and filled the need for cute, vintage buttons. I also got an appointment with my stylist this week for a much-needed haircut (she took off over 6″!), and am now extremely happy that I can do a decent curl set again! Although my first attempt yesterday came out kind of wacky; but I think that had more to do with the setting lotion I use than anything else. haha!

friday favorites

  • Gertie sparked a truly interesting discussion on vintage beauty ideals recently that sparked some lively discussion!
  • Got holes in your favorite pair of socks? Do what our thrifty grandmothers did: darn them!
  • I love this rather eye-catching way to store and display jewelry
  • Solanah showed us how to tie a headscarf in that jaunty way that was popular in the 40s! (I did it yesterday to cover my pincurls!)
  • Tips and tricks for eliminating annoying body odor in vintage rayon. (Thanks, Jen!)

02.05.10 {1945 two-piece summer outfit}

[ as always, click for a larger view. ]

This week’s inspiration image is a sweet two-piece-er from 1945! I know, I know… I’m taunting those of you that are living in colder climates (I’m sorry–I don’t mean to !), but I can’t help thinking about summer clothes, even though our weather isn’t being exactly cooperative either. I normally don’t like big, bold rose prints (too fussy), but this could almost win me over! Plus, what girl can go wrong with a dirndl skirt? I know that style is the backbone of my wardrobe!

Have a lovely, safe weekend, friends!


late 30s fashion in film {part two}

February 4th, 2010

02_03_10a

[ check out the unique, "winged" sleeves on the jacket, and the lacing up the front of the playsuit. ]

In my last round up of late 1930s film fashion, I can’t believe I forgot to mention one of my favorites (and seemingly many of your’s too!): the 1939 classic The Women! If you haven’t seen it, you really must. I won’t clutter this entry with a description of the plot, but suffice to say it’s a wonderful mash-up of fashion, amazing actresses (Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford, Rosalind Russel… just to name a few!), and witty dialog. It’s basically what we’d call in modern terms a “chick flick”, but it’s certainly one of the chicest chick flicks I’ve ever seen!

The film is so chock full of wonderful, over-the-top clothes (designed by the talented Gilbert Adrian), that I’m not even going to try and cover it all in one post! For this (first!) post I decided to cover my favorite part of the movie: the fashion show! Although the rest of the movie is in black and white, midway through the main characters attend a fashion show and the film switches into color (a true late 30s touch!). The fashions are fantastically theatrical as only Adrian could design them, with many sly winks at the mania for surrealism at the time. (Check out the beach jacket with the modeled-hand closure!) I hope you’ll be as inspired by all these fun looks as I am! (If you haven’t seen the movie, check out the scene in action here.)

Seeing all these makes me wildly excited about playsuits with sweet little details and jaunty hats! What details catch your eye?

02_03_10b

[ more sweet playsuits. ]

02_03_10c[ one of the most interesting, surrealist pieces in the whole fashion show--check out the modeled hand clasp on the jacket! ]

02_03_10d[ I've pretty much decided if I can have a beach jacket with snappy red stripes around the shoulders, I'd be a happy girl! ]

02_03_10e[ more seaside fashions; two longer lounging outfits. the series of pockets on the left outfit are so interesting! ]

02_03_10f[ eye-catching cool-weather outfits. the center one is my favorite--especially the jaunty hat! ]

02_03_10g[ more gorgeous daywear. the fur details on the black outfit are pure Hollywood--so glamorous! ]

02_03_10h[ fanciful gowns. the one on the right with the simulated black skirt and midriff waistband and scalloped hem is so pretty! ]

02_03_10i[ more floaty gowns! ]

02_03_10j[ striking evening gowns. take a close look at the hat the model in the green gown is wearing: the crown is a clear plastic! ]

02_03_10k[ the caped evening ensemble is so interesting... ]

02_03_10l[ more glamorous looks! ]

02_03_10m[ I love this bustled gown so much--the shaping is divine, while the color keeps it elegant. ]

02_03_10n[ gloves all in one with the sleeves! ]

02_03_10o[ another nod to surrealism: gigantic gold "studs" on the gloves! ]


my sewing madness grows…

February 2nd, 2010

02.02.10 {the sewing obsession deepens...}

[ how I've been spending my free time. ]

Sewing my own 1940s bra may sound a little obsessive to some–like I’ve finally gone over the edge. But as someone who used to make my own historical undergarments back in the day, it doesn’t seem quite so out of the ordinary. Why am I doing this? Because I have an insatiable curiosity about how garments go together: construction and shape. Since my interest extends far beyond outerwear, it seemed like a good time to give this project a try! Since several of you have requested I start posting more of the “process” of my projects, I thought I’d let you in on how this one is going (despite my irrational fear of jinxing myself by posting a half-way finished project! lol).

02.02.10 {the sewing obsession deepens...}

[ a better view of some of the fitting. ]

Lauren recently listed a .pdf 40s bra pattern in her shop, and as soon as I saw it I had to give it a try! It’s taken me a long time to tackle this project, because like most early undergarments, this one has been plagued by fitting issues. However, through sheer perseverance and studying whatever I can find on bras of the period, it’s starting to shape up (no pun intended). The instructions with the original pattern are sparse, so Lauren has helpfully provided additional material to understand a bit more about construction. One thing I have discovered about 40s bras through cursory research is that they are very primitive in comparison to today’s bra offerings. Things like cup-sizing, underwire, adjustable straps, etc. that we take for granted, were not always commonplace (especially underwire during the war). I have also had to sleuth a bit about what areas to reinforce for greater support. So far, I’ve added an additional layer of fabric on the bottom of the cups (quilted together), and at the front band. This seems to have done a great deal to enhance the supportive qualities of the bra, without adding unnecessary bulk.

The greatest challenge has been fitting: the pattern, though marked a 32″, is quite large, and I’ve had to adjust the overall length of the band to reduce it to the proper fit (and allow for a slight gap in the back where the elastic band will be). The cups have also been an adventure, as this bra is not marked with any specific sizing. I’ve had to rework those a bit to fit my smallish bust (no surprise here; just about every historical undergarment I’ve made has to be adjusted here). So I’d say the bra was best for a C cup-size. I have been fitting the cups by pinning out the excess fullness, just as I would in fitting any other garment pattern, with an eye towards the fact that little ease is needed at all in a bra.

So now I have gotten to the point of needing to cut out a third (and hopefully final) muslin. I’m using a sturdy cotton (about “quilting weight” in today’s terms), as I found that many bras of the era were not only made from rayon satin but broadcloth (typically cotton) as well. A precursor to our comfortable, modern cotton jersey bras, I suppose! If all goes well, I have a vintage nightgown that I’m going to use to create a satin bra (the nightgown has some moth holes, so it’s basically useless). I’ll let you know how the adventure progresses!

p.s. Here are some ads and other images that I scanned from some of my mid 40s magazines… just in case you’re obsessive like me!

02.02.10 {a little bit of research}

[ click for a larger view. ]

02.02.10 {a little bit of research}

[ click for a larger view. ]

02.02.10 {a little bit of research}

[ click for a larger view. ]

02.02.10 {a little bit of research}

[ click for a larger view. ]


weekend finds

February 1st, 2010

02.01.10 {weekend finds}

[ weekend hunting finds. ]

Thank you all so, so much for the amazing comments about my latest sewing project! Per popular request, I am going to work on a couple sleeve support tutorials: first for puffed sleeves and then how to make 40s style shoulder pads. So hopefully those will be up soon!

02.01.10 {weekend finds}

[ two 50s patterns I found at the estate sale. I'm most excited about the robe/morning gown! ]

You may have noticed I skipped posting last Friday–I have a good excuse though! I was out hunting down an estate sale I had found out about and seeing if it held any goodies. This was the first estate sale I’ve ever been to (I know: really weird for a gal who has been thrifting/antiquing/yard-saling for years!), so I didn’t know what to expect. Although there were no amazing stashes of vintage clothing (boo!), I did come away with a couple vintage patterns, an old tablecloth, some notions, an old frame (slated to be made into a jewelry holder), and two matching feedsacks. Not bad!

02.01.10 {weekend finds}

[ vintage powder compacts! ]

Sunday the vintage-hunting fun continued when I met up with my new friend from swing dancing at a local vintage store. I got another pattern (a 40s jacket and skirt), and most excitingly: two powder compacts. I have been on the hunt for vintage compacts to add some flair to the contents of my purse for awhile, but I held out over Christmas and only just started looking with an eye to buy. Both of these, although not 100% perfect, fit the bill of functional and pretty. The black one is a bit scratched, but the lady at the store said it’s easy to fix with a bit of hobby model paint, so I’m going to raid Sailor Husband’s model building supplies and see what I can do to pretty it up. Now I just need to get some loose powder and follow Solanah’s tutorial for refilling a compact…

02.01.10 {weekend finds}

[ I am probably more excited about this find than is sane... ]

Otherwise, the weekend was fairly quiet: the weather was gloomy, so it was perfect for spending time reading and organizing ideas for my next sewing projects, and then Sunday evening was swing dancing. Last week I really wasn’t sure I was going to be able to learn how to dance–it just seemed too confusing! I feel a bit more confident and less clumsy after our second class. I am definitely not the most graceful or talented person on the dance floor–but at least it’s fun! What did you do over the weekend?

Have a great Monday, friends!


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